From Skyscrapers to Lemon Groves – Part 1

Daily Life on the Amalfi Coast

I took this picture in early morning on my daily walk - when the Amalfi coast was just waking up

Daily life on the Amalfi Coast is full of sunshine, garlic and lemons. Riding a Vespa along the famous Amalfi Drive, curving between the cliffs and the sea, I look at the view and wonder what I did to deserve living in such a breathtaking place.

You can tune in to my short video series documenting my daily life here, but in the meantime I will tell you a little about my latest adventures.

The Amalfi Coast is composed of a variety of small towns just south of Naples on the Mediterranean coast. Houses are built into the rocks and cliffs overlooking the sea. Lemon groves and grape vines are scattered through the winding roads. Life is simple here and revolves mostly around family. Every day for lunch, families join and sit for a meal of pasta and wine, followed by seasonal fruit and an espresso. Then a swim is usually in line before getting back to work. Everyone has a tanned glow and is smiling, offering some sort of food or beverage, using loud voice inflections in both Italian and Neapolitan dialect accompanied animated hand gestures. 

My main source of transportation here is hitching a ride, or “prendere un passagio”. Since the coast is so small, I more than often know someone passing. I usually jump on the back of a vespa and ride from one town to the next, visiting family, friends, or discovering new beach.

Andrea with his Granita Cart on the beach in Amalfi

The economy here thrives on tourism. The economic crisis hit the coast like a ton of bricks, but it is slowly recovering. This year my cousin Andrea (Andrew in English) started a new business making lemon slushies (or granitas), from a small cart. The lemons are of course grown locally and organically and his granitas are the best on the coast (I’m not biased). It makes me laugh to see him rolling by along the beach or the port with his cart, and he has an equally fun personality to accompany it.

The beaches offer sunbed and umbrella rentals, restaurants cook recipes with fresh fish caught daily, handmade pasta, and locally grown vegetables and fruit. Hotels include terraces overlooking the sea and the shops sell handmade ceramics, unique to the coast.

Me! Boating on the Mediterranean Sea

Sometimes I feel like I stepped back in time and imagine my great grandmother Rose and great grandfather Fabiano walking the same cobblestone streets that I walk every day. I go to visit my aunts, and as we sit in the kitchen I listen to their stories about my great grandmother, who died when I was a child. She left Amalfi to find a better life, and my great grandfather followed her onto the ship all the way across the Atlantic to Ellis Island, pressing for her hand in marriage. She finally agreed and they married in New Haven, CT, which is the sister city of Amalfi because during the depression many Amalfitans went to New Haven.  Rose and Fabiano stayed together to raise 3 children, 7 grandchildren, and 6 great grandchildren.

Now here I am, with fire in my heart, tracing my roots back to where it all began.

Amalfi Coast Lemons - they grow to be the size of grapefruits!

The famous Duomo of San Andrea on the Piazza of Amalfi

View of Amalfi from a town above called Tovere

Sunset over Mount Vesuvius. I snapped this picture on a drive back to Amalfi from Naples. Mount Vesuvius is a volcano that destroyed the ancient city of Pompeii in 79 AD.

How to Make Tagliatelle by Hand

From Skyscrapers to Lemon Groves: Part 3 -

Bringing back the joys of homemade pasta…Tagliatelle fatte a mano

The ritual of making homemade pasta is becoming a thing of the past, even in Italy, the homeland of homemade pasta. Barilla and Garofalo are two of the major companies that produce mass amounts of high quality pasta in Italy and abroad, making homemade pasta an unnecessary project. Younger generations also see pasta being made by hand as a time consuming annoyance that their grandparents used to do “back in the day”. 

Yet homemade pasta can be a fun project, and that’s just what I decided to do one rainy Sunday morning with my cousin, whose name also happens to be Valeria! We decided to make a popular ribbon shaped pasta called Tagliatelle. The process was a little messy and a lot of fun! Below is the recipe so that you can try it at home.

 Warning: This recipe is not from a cook book. It has been passed down through generations and does not use a measuring system, but rather your own eye and judgment as to what looks “right”. Cooking is a creative art.  Good luck!  

First, you will need: 

800 kili of Flour

8 eggs

7 pinches of salt

A pasta making machine (available at department and kitchen stores)

Mix about half of the flour with the eggs and salt all together in a bowl until thick, kneading and folding over the dough with your hands for about 5 minutes. This is an important process because it develops the gluten in the pasta, which then gives the pasta a firm texture. Let it sit for about 30 minutes. 

Mixing the dough

After the dough has been sitting for 30 minutes, use your hands to roll it into a long log form and cut in about 3 inch increments. Make sure that it is covered with enough flour so that it won’t stick!

Flatten each 3 inch section with your hands and place it into the widest setting of a pasta roller, shown below. This will make the dough flat. There should be a variety of settings on a machine that is designed to make pasta, and we will be using three of the settings.

Flattening in the “machina per la pasta”, or pasta machine

Next, change the setting on the machine so that it will create a longer and flatter piece of dough. Put the flat dough through again, this time creating the longer and thinner layer. Keep adding flour to the dough.

Finally, change the setting once again to cut the dough into the desired shape…in our case this will be long ribbon shapes. Put the pieces of dough back through the machine one at a time. The machine will cut the dough into long ribbons. Put the ribbons aside on a plate until all of the dough is finished. Throughout this entire process, keep the ribbons covered in flour so that they won’t stick. There should be flour on top of the dough at all times. 

Creating the ribbon shape

This is me, covered in flour and ready to throw the ribbons into the boiling water!

Boil a pot of water and throw in the pasta, separating it with a fork so the ribbons don’t stick together. Boil for about 5 minutes or until “al dente”. Keep tasting the pasta after about 3 minutes, however, to make sure it does not overcook… and voila! Talgliatelli fatte a mano! 

Of course, Sunday sauce, homemade!

Voila! Tagliatelle fatte a mano, with homemade Bolognese sauce. Buon Appetito!

Views of Amalfi and the Joys of La Festa Della Patata

From Skyscrapers to Lemon Groves: Part 2 -

Enjoying priceless surroundings and the delight of potatoes!

I dive head first into the sea and open my eyes, swimming toward the silence and nothingness, through the contrasting hues of dark and light blue, as the sun’s rays transpire down, down, down. I keep swimming underwater until I can’t hold my breath any longer. When I finally pop to the surface, I spin around to see the panorama of Amalfi behind me, brightly colored orange and blue umbrellas scattering the beach, the forefront of this ancient town. It is well known that the view of Amalfi from the sea is the most magnificent view there is.  I float for a minute and take it all in before swimming back to shore. I climb out of the water and back into the thick heat, to my sunbed, letting the salt cover my skin. I like the feeling of the salt on my skin and don’t want to wash it off just yet. I also let it dry in my hair, forming almost perfect curls. This is summer. This is Amalfi.

The sun is starting to set behind the mountains, casting a red tint over the town, and it’s time for me to head back home. I hitch a ride on the back of a vespa and careen around the curves, until I reach my front door. It is time to get ready for the “Festa Della Patata”, which is a festival in a small town called Tovere, located just above Amalfi.

Looking down on Amalfi from Tovere

A few hours later, with the salt washed out of my hair and off my skin, I am with a group of excited and laughing friends, some of us piled into a little Fiat, others on vespas, all of us heading to the festival.

Ten Euros will allow us to walk around the festival and eat anything and everything made out of potatoes from different stands; Potato salad, gnocchi, pasta and potatoes, potato croquets, French fries, and potato zeppole (like a donut). I have never eaten so many potatoes in my life…and they are AMAZING!

An overload of carbohydrates doesn’t seem to be a concern for anyone as the town swarms with hungry Italians. A small band of local boys plays classic Neapolitan songs and we greet other friends and family that we see along the stradone, or main road.  The road is lined with vendors coming from Naples to sell their wares…bancarelle they are called in Neapolitan dialect. They sell everything from toys to fresh sliced coconut, to small animals like bunnies and chicks.

Feeding my cousin gnocchi with tomato sauce at the festival

After we have had our fill of potatoes, we make our way back down to Amalfi and meet friends and familiar faces on the lungomare, the main street bordering the town and the sea. We sit and drink wine or espresso, listening to music and debating on what potato dish was the best and why. Tomorrow, we say, we will only eat fruit!

Savor the Sweetness of the Amalfi Lemon Groves

From Skyscrapers to Lemon Groves: Part 6 -

“Leaving behind my beloved New York skyscrapers has of course been a bit tart, but I prefer to savor the sweetness of the lemon groves”

The other day I brought a literal meaning to the title of my column, as I dove head first into the abundant lemon groves that ascend through the Amalfi Coast hills. I discovered that something called a Lemon Tour exists, created by the De Riso family here in Minori, Italy. This tour takes people up into the mountains to explore the paths and passageways of the groves high above the Mediterranean Sea.

View from the gardens in Scala, Italy

I brought along my 7 year old cousin Myriam to experience this adventure, as I thought it would be a special experience for her. The tour began very early in the morning, where we met Carlo De Riso, the mastermind behind the tour.

Climbing into a refurbished antique bus, we clambered up the mountains from Minori, through La Marmorata and into Scala and Pontone. It was a gorgeous morning and as we made our way up from the seafront into the dense gardens, the view of the sun rising over the sea created a serene glow. Scala is a small town situated above Minori and is one of the oldest communes on the coast. This is where we find fresh fruits, vegetables, and livestock.

With Myriam in the heart of the lemon groves. Notice the grapes hanging above our heads.

Once in the groves, we began our descent on foot, climbing down crumbling stairs, through soil and trees and under a canopy of lemons, figs, grapes, zucchini and tomatoes.  We trekked past pigs, horses, rabbits, and ducks. Cats scampered out from under our feet as we trudged along. It was cool and fresh and the smell of lemons filled the air and our noses.

The celebrated lemon groves: The lemons are folded under a wooden umbrella for protection from the wind and weather. They are supported by the wood which in turn allows them to grow larger.

Lemons are one of the most important crops cultivated on the Amalfi Coast. Years ago, during the depression, the cultivation of lemons was relied upon to feed and maintain large families. They are now a world renowned symbol of the coast, growing to be larger than grapefruits and being used in everything imaginable; from sweets to liquors, pastas, salads and even eaten alone, drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

The De Riso family has been in the lemon business since 1927. Each cousin has branched off into a specialty-desserts, liquors and distribution. The lemon tour was started last year and has been a success among tourists looking to see for themselves what all the lemon hype is about.

Carlo De Riso giving me a lesson on Amalfi Coast lemons.

One of the most beautiful parts of the tour was meeting the men that work in the gardens, picking and caring for the fruit every day. These men don’t do this work for the money but instead for the tradition and the culture-their love for the land and the importance of what it means for Italy and the coast. To me, that is raw and beautiful truth.

Two of the magicians behind the lemon cultivation…and their dog!

I learned that some of the different types of lemons cultivated on the Amalfi Coast are:

Verdello: Cultivated in September and October, they are round in shape and contain more of a green tint.

Zagora Bianca: Smaller in size and round in shape.

Sfusato: Generally longer and thinner in shape.

Primo Fiore: The most fragrant with more of an acidic juice.

We finally made it through the groves and down into the town of Pontone, where we sat in the shade and enjoyed slices of lemon cake, drank lemonade and munched on freshly picked lemons drizzled with olive oil and balsamic. From there we boarded the little bus back to Minori where we were able to get a glimpse of the De Riso lemon factory. Once in the factory,  the lemons are then converted into deliciousness (Limoncello, anyone?) and sent out to be sold and consumed.

Limoncello and lemon treats at the De Riso factory in Minori, Italy.

In all, leaving behind my beloved New York skyscrapers has of course been a bit tart, but I prefer to savor the sweetness of the lemon groves.

August Festivals on the Amalfi Coast

From Skyscrapers to Lemon Groves: Part 4 -

Endless celebrations of food and fun

August is full of festivals and parties in Italy. Almost every night there is a town that is honoring a Saint or a type of delicious food. Since my last article on “La Festa Della Patata”, there have been wine, cheese and pastry festivals, to name a few. There has also been the celebration of Ferragosto, one of the most important holidays in Italy. Ferragosto, celebrated on the 15^th of August, beckons all the city dwellers down to the coast, where they can enjoy a day of sea, sun and sand.

La Sagra Della Mozzarella: The Amalfi Coast is famous for producing arguably the best mozzarella in the world, and the other night I went to a mozzarella festival in Agerola with some friends called “Fiordilatte Fiordifesta”. Agerola is a town in the mountains above the Amalfi Coast, about 35 killometers south of the city of Naples and about 15 killometers above Amalfi.

At the festival, we ate Fior di Latte mozzarella. We paired it with prosciutto, with pasta, with eggplant, bread, tomatoes, and of course all by itself. We ate it warm and melted, raw and cold, and spread as a cream along foccacia bread. We ate mozzarella in every way possible.

Two of the most well known types are Fior di Latte, made in the town of Agerola, and Mozzerella di Bufala (Buffalo Mozzarella), produced in a village called Tramonti. Mozzarella di Bufala is produced using the milk of water buffalo, originally brought to the Campania region of Italy from India in about 600 AD. They thrived along the Amalfi Coast. Fior di Latte is known to be made with less fat and lighter, but some argue that the taste is not as sweet.  Everyone has their own opinion on what type is the best mozzarella. I love both.

Mozzarella Festival in Agerola-Fior di Latte Mozzarella

Ferragosto: Ferragosto is another holiday with ridiculous parties, and this was my first time experiencing the festivities. Ferragosto is celebrated on the 15^th of August.  I went to the town of  Positano to see the fireworks display with some friends. Positano is known to have one of the best fireworks displays on the coast. We laid down a sarong on the beach with some red wine and watched the display. It was spectacular.

Although Ferragosto is now associated with beach and sun, it dates as far back as to the times of the emperors.  In the 18^thcentury BC, emperor Ottaviano Augusto declared that August 15^th would be a day of rest for Italy, as a way to celebrate the end of summer. It was celebrated with games and horse races. Ferragosto is also a religious holiday for Italy, which is a Catholic country. It is Santa Assunta day, said to be the rise of Mary into Heaven to join her son Jesus and look after all of the people on Earth. Everyone on the Amalfi Coast celebrated the coming of Ferragosto with dancing in the port of Amalfi, followed by the next day under the hot sun at the beach, and then fireworks at night.

Positano in August

A Ferragosto firework above the beach in Positano

Notte Bianca: Another fun festival takes place in a town called Praiano. All the stores remain open all night long, and everyone dresses from head to toe in white. For the young Italians, it’s another excuse to party on a hot August night.

View from Praiano before Notte Bianca, another festival in August!

Notte Bianca

A Magical Place Called Villa Rufolo in Ravello

From Skyscrapers to Lemon Groves: Part 4 -

A place of historical charm and timeless beauty to enjoy views of the Mediterranean Sea

Ravello is a small, peaceful and picturesque town situated above the Amalfi Coast, directly overlooking the towns of Minori, Marmorata, and of course the Mediterranean Sea. Like the other towns along the coast, Ravello is rich in history and culture and has been a vacation spot for famous names such as Jacqueline Kennedy, Tennessee Williams, and Gay Talese.   

One of the most famous attractions that Ravello boasts is the beautiful Villa Rufolo, a magnificent villa dating back to the 11^th century; the entrance to which is located on left side of Ravello’s small piazza. 

Villa Rufolo is named after the family that built it, the Rufolo family. The architecture is a perfect fusion of Arabic, Sicilian and Norman design. One of the major aspects of the villa is the Torre Maggiore, a large tower of thirty meters that looms over the town and the sea. It was built to signify the wealth and prominence of the Rufolo family.

Bouganvilla can be found surrounding the grounds of the villa.

The gardens of the villa are also notably one of the most beautiful in the world and are said to be the inspiration for Richard Wagner’s opera “Parsifal”. They are full of cypresses and exotic plants and flowers. 

Touring the gardens at the Villa Rufolo

The height of power for the Rufolo family was in the 13^th century. They were largely involved in the trading industry and after the battle of Benevento in 1266, the Rufolo family swore allegiance to the new conquerors, the Angioini.  They became very active in the reign of the region. 

However, after the war of the Vesporo in 1283, the Angioini power began to fall. Some of the Rufolo family members were captured and eventually sentenced to death by Prince Charles of Salerno, who wanted to seize the fortune. He succeeded, and the Rufolo family did not recover, losing all power in the 15^th century. Over the centuries the villa has been left in ruins and restored, most notably by Scottish botanist Francis Neville Reid.

Now it is a peaceful attraction through which one can stroll and feel the magic of history while overlooking the grandeur of the Amalfi Coast. It is also home to the famous Ravello Festival, a series of concerts held in the villa as well as other sites around Ravello. Talented musicians and performers travel from around the world to perform for guests under a sky full of stars and a backdrop of jagged coastline. The New York Ballet and the Lincoln Center Jazz Orchestra are two of the big names that have performed here this August. 

My favorite view and arguably the most famous at the Villa!

I had the pleasure of sitting down with the director of Villa Rufolo, Dottore Secondo Amalfitano, who provided me with some of the history and insider information on the villa. Their webcam, he told me, is one of the ten most watched webcams in the world! The villa is also open all year round, a rarity on the Amalfi coast.  Aside from the famous Ravello Festival series in July and August, there are also concerts held here year round. 

In addition to the rich history and undeniable beauty of the Villa Rufolo, Ravello is full of quaint shops and cafes, with a cool wind coming up from the sea through the mountains, offering a quiet respite from the summer heat.

Capri, The Blue Grotto and the Myth of the Sirens

From Skyscrapers to Lemon Groves: Part 5 -

The beauty seen in darkness

Wandering through the caves of Capri and the Amalfi Coast, I can almost hear the Sirens that Homer mentioned when he wrote The Odyssey.  Ulysses knew that he couldn’t stop even his most stoic sailors from succumbing to the luring song of the sirens. As the ships sailed by, he ordered his sailors to fill their ears with wax as to not hear the seducing songs. Ulysses himself, however, wanted to hear the sirens’ beautiful voices so he tied himself to the ships mast so that he couldn’t escape.  Roman writers also suggest that the sirens are daughters of Phorcys, the God of the Sea. They sang sad and sweet songs to lure in sailors, but always with a deadly result. It is here on the Amalfi Coast where the myth seems to become reality.

Faraglioni, the famous rock formations of Capri and the mythical habitat of the Sirens

Riding along the shores of Capri, I explored the rocky coast, hidden caves, and deep blue crystal clear waters that these fabled sailors passed through. I sailed until I reached the blue grotto, or Grotta Azzurra.  The Blue Grotto is a small cave on the Island of Capri that reflects the most pristine and piercing blue light that I have ever seen. There is a very small hole that is the entryway, allowing light into the grotto. The large surrounding walls/rocks don’t reach the sea floor, which in turn allows sunlight to reflect underneath the water creating this mesmerizing blue effect in the cave.

The Blue Grotto is said to have been the private bath of Emperor Tiberius. It was later said by the island’s sailors to be haunted by evil spirits, therefore it remained largely untouched. By 1826 the Blue Grotto was rediscovered by German painter August Kopisch and since then has become a major attraction with people all over the world travelling to get a glimpse.

Right before entering the Blue Grotto

A dear friend from New York came to visit me last week and it was the perfect excuse to take a trip to this famed wonder.  My experience was one of comedy, terror, and awe. It began by the two of us sliding into a small rowboat with a Native Caprese sailor rowing us into the cave. 

“Lay flat and don’t move!” He ordered. “Keep your arms close to your chest!”

I was smushed like a sardine in a little rowboat next to my friend, lying on my back, looking up at the sailor as he tried to navigate this little rowboat over the rolling waves and into the cave’s tiny entrance. 

Bungada Bangada!

 The boat smashed into the sides of the rocks and water splashed onto our faces. 

“This is it”, I thought.  “I’m going to die on my way into the Blue Grotto”.

The sailor was holding on tight to a thick metal chain that was attached to the inside of the grotto, ready to force the boat through the hole. 

“C’e la facciamo justo justo”…. “We will just about fit”, he was saying to us.

Inside the Blue Grotto

All of a sudden I heard a bang, felt the boat surge forward, and then we were engulfed in darkness. I opened my eyes and saw the most intense blue light I had ever seen shining up through the water. “Hurry, jump! Hurry Hurry!”  The fisherman was saying in a “whisper-scream”, as swimming in the grotto is strictly forbidden. 

The next thing I knew, I was flying through the air and into the water. I popped up and looked around. I was the only one swimming in this dark cave with blue light shining all around me. Another splash and my friend was bobbing next to me. I was terrified of what sea creatures may have been swimming below, but excited about the fact that I was submerged in this electrifying grotto.

Suddenly, I was being pulled up by my arms and into the rocking rowboat. I had to lay flat again and we were pushed back into the real world and bright sunlight by a giant wave and a yank of the chain. 

Turquoise waters along the coast

Looking back, it was two minutes of sheer panic and laughter all rolled into one.  It’s not what one might think of when traveling to the luxurious and mythical island of Capri, but it was an experience that I will always remember fondly. 

From Skyscrapers to Lemon Groves – Easter in Campania

The start of new Amalfi memories

Winter in the USA was unusually mild this year and I kept busy with personal styling and writing about Italian Fashion. Luckily I made it back to Italy just in time for Easter.

This Easter was especially exciting because it was my first Easter in Italy. I celebrated part of the holiday vacation in Minori, a village on the Amalfi Coast. We began the festivities on Good Friday, honoring Jesus’ death.  All the lights in the town were turned off and nothing but fiery torches and glowing candles lined the streets. My cousin and I respected the Good Friday tradition and didn’t eat meat that day. 

By the end of the day we were gathered in the streets with the rest of the townspeople, watching the procession, eating and socializing. The streets were vivacious and full of people laughing and greeting each other. My cousin who is also named Valeria, decided to buy a hot dog (not very Italian of her). As she held the hotdog in her hand, mouth open, about to take a big bite, her husband sauntered over. When he saw the hotdog in her hand, his eyes grew wide and he shrieked, “What are you doing, it’s Holy Friday, and you’re not supposed to eat meat!” We had completely forgotten with all the excitement going on around us. Imagine! She had gone the entire day without eating meat and was about to break the “fast” a few hours before midnight! We looked at each other and couldn't help but laugh.

Good Friday procession in Minori Italy

As the procession of white hooded believers paraded the Virgin Mary and the body of Jesus through the streets of this seaside village, I couldn’t help but feel a pride for the tradition and culture. The band played and the prayers were said over a microphone for all of us to hear.

After the procession came Holy Saturday, a day for rest and time with family.

Finally Easter Sunday arrived and I spent the day with my boyfriend’s family in Salerno. The holiday lasted well into the evening. We ate too much, talked too much, and had a fabulous time.

I was even able to bring the tradition of the Easter Bunny and an egg hunt to Italy, where my seven year old cousin, Myriam, was thrilled to learn about the concept of candy hidden in plastic Easter eggs….and presents from a rabbit. 

The Easter festivities don’t stop at Easter Sunday, however. Monday is a national holiday as well, called “Pasquetta”. Pasquetta is usually spent in the mountains or by the sea, amongst family and friends, and is another excuse to eat, drink and laugh too much. I was in Paestum experiencing a full emersion into this Italian tradition. Paestum, a town on the Cilento Coast, over an hour south of the Amalfi Coast. Paestum is known for its farmland- especially artichokes, mozzarella, and livestock, as well as Ancient Greek Temples.

Paestum and the ruins of the Temple of Athena

A Pasquetta Rainbow in Paestum

Easter seemed to be just the thing that was needed to bring life back to the Amalfi Coast after a long winter.  With tourist season beginning, the locals are busy preparing the coast for a long and beautiful summer… full of exciting things to write about.

A Little Piece of Paradise in Positano

Enjoying being a concierge of fashion, food and more on Amalfi Coast

Much has happened since my last article for Italia Living. Living life in the Lemon Groves has been extra adventurous this past summer. I moved to Positano. I began a new career. And so the story continues.

Positano seems to be the ideal place for a transplanted New Yorker to choose to live on the Amalfi Coast. The fashion is on a whole other level than the rest of the surrounding villages- Fendi, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana, among others, are displayed in every store window…not to mention the fine linens and hand made leather sandals, bags, etc.

I find myself wandering through the streets alone with the shoes, bags and clothes as my company. My first friend since moving here was the store clerk at Missoni. Dangerous.

Positano, however, is a town full of cobblestone staircases because it rests on a mountainside. It is absolutely the most beautiful sight when seen from the sea. It takes my breath away. Needless to say, my thighs and butt are quickly getting whipped into shape with the 200 steps that I have to climb every day to get home. With this in mind, I kissed my 4 inch heels goodbye for the time being and have resorted to wearing my canvas, nautical inspired Toms everywhere I go. I’m a little nervous to see how the streets, staircases and narrow passageways handle the first rainfall.

After spending so much time between America and Italy, I have become known throughout friends in both countries as the “go to” person when planning a trip. I know all of the best things to do in both places- where and how to save the most money, places well worth visiting on and off the beaten path, what to eat, drink and where to sleep.

This year the Amalfi Coast seems to have been bombarded with New Yorkers, all flocking to grab a little piece of paradise. I have metamorphosed into the concierge of the area and I wear the hat proudly because when you love a place as much as I love the coast, you want to share only the best things with the people who are visiting. With that said, even if you are a reader of my column and I don’t know you personally, my email inbox is always open.

Ciao for now!

Valeria

A Day of Mozzarella, Wine and Olive Oil on the Cilento Coast

The curving roads always lead to flavors of joy in Italy

Gassing up the “Smart” during our “piccolo viaggio”

One of my favorite things to do is to get into the car and drive. It doesn’t matter where I go, as long as I’m soaking in all the sites and sounds. For me, that is the best way to see the countryside.

The other day I jumped into this little grey Smart Car and zipped around the curvy Amalfi Drive, over the mountainside, through the country roads and over to the the Cilento Coast.

The Cilento Coast is best known as the Amalfi Coast’s quiet neighbor. Not yet largely present on the tourist map, it is full of mozzarella farms and rolling hills covered in vineyards and olive trees. Cilento is like a little gem in Campania; I want to share it with the world but at the same time want to keep the secret all to myself. It is the land of the Mozzarella, where the best mozzarella in all of Italy is produced. We pass the mozzarella factories, or caseificio, driving through the rolling hills and through curving roads. Our destination is first a mozzarella factory and then a family owned Vineyard.

The Mozzarella here is made from the milk of water buffalo. Although perhaps Americans are not able to tell the difference, Italians can instantly tell you if the mozzarella cheese  you are eating is mozzarella di bufala (made from the milk of water buffalo), or fior di latte (made from cow’s milk). Regardless, this mozzarella di bufala factory shows us the long process of making the mozzarella- stiring and heating the curds, stretching the cheese and twisting the cheese to form a treccia, or braid. It is interesting to see a centuries old tradition mixed with modern techniques, creating one of the most sought after cheeses in the world.  We jump back into the Smart Car and leave the mozzarella factory with a bag of mozzarella in tow and head to the land of wine and olives.

I can see rows of grape vines in the distance, getting closer as we approach.

As we pull onto the long dirt driveway and drive under the canopy of pines I can hear dogs barking to greet us. They are in a little fenced area covered by two giant olive trees. Looking to my left are sloping acres of grapevines and up to my right are the olive groves.

As I get out of the car I squint my eyes from the sun and a smiling man with white hair and tanned skin welcomes me with two kisses. It is Mr. M and he has been expecting us.

My swimming pool of red wine

We shuffle into the old farmhouse and through a large door. The smell of wine instantly fills my nose. The room is full of large barrels and tanks of fermenting grapes and Mr. M is demonstrating the process of how the wines are made. He is filling a large barrel while red wine is being pushed through a large hose  attached to the tank. The barrel is rapidly filling with wine and I must admit that the thought crosses my mind to dive in and take a dip and a sip.

Next we head into the 25 acres of olive groves. The olives are harvested just as they begin to ripen and then pressed cold, creating the extra virgin olive oil. This region has been growing olives for thousands of years. Olive groves and oil production is in the blood of the people. They know what they are doing.

The olives

From the olive groves we meander into the farm house and over to the rustic tasting room. Bottles of Fiano, Aglianico and piedirosso are scattered about and  a plate mounting with focaccia and olive oil sits delicately in the center of the table.

The farm is also home to a group of cats, petite and patient, sitting outside the door looking in at us quizzically. I wonder what it’s like to be a cat living in this tasty jungle of olive groves and the grape vines.

Sitting at a large round table with Mr. and Mrs. M, we chat and the hours pass, until I glance at my watch (Mr. M informed us that he does not ever wear a watch. We should all try that for one full day). But it is time to head back home so we get back into the little grey Smart Car, with of course an extra bottle of wine in tow and head back over the mountains and along the curves until we get home, back to our lemon groves and salty sea air.

Valeria checking out the grapes!

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