Sunday Dinner

Guest Post By: Michael Mammele

Today I experienced my first Sunday dinner in Italy, and it was one that I'm sure I will never forget. I knew that I was in for an immersing experience, being the only person at the table that could barely speak a word of Italian. Luckily with Valeria by my side as my personal translator, I was able to share the laughs and good spirits of the great company I was with, truly making me feel like I was family. 

The meal started with the “antipasto” portion; something to nibble on before the larger portions arrived. This consisted of fried dough balls stuffed with pancetta. It was unbelievable and left me curious as to know what was up next. 

Next up was the “primo,” or the appetizer portion. It consisted of crepes with ricotta cheese and cream sauce, as well as lasagna with meat sauce. I would not consider myself a picky eater, but at home I know what I like and what I do not. Usually I would take a bite or two of something unfamiliar and pretend that I enjoy it not to upset whoever was cooking. Today, however, I knew I better not let a crumb go to waste. The crepes were truly out of this world, and the cream sauce that came along with it added so much to each bite. The lasagna was the best I've had. I felt myself getting full already, not even realizing that there were three more courses to come. 

The second course is referred to as "the secondo," and consisted of meatballs, and chicken and veal cutlet. The food was non-stop. Once I finished each plate Francesco's mother Esther was right there with the next. I know better than to say anyone's meatballs are better than my own mother's, but these were absolutely incredible. 

The “contorno” is the fourth dish, translating loosely to the word, "contours," meaning vegetables that help shape the entire meal. It was a delicious salad with lemon, olive oil, and salt; relatively simple, and a great way to help wind down the experience. 

At last was the “dolce,” or dessert. Just take a look for yourself.

While the meal was unbelievable, what made this dinner an experience was the people I was with. Conversation was constant, everybody took a turn to pour some Ferrarelle (Italian sparkling water) and soccer was on the television. While I may not speak Italian, I didn't need to to feel like I was part of this family. The first thing Francesco's father said to me was to move my chair in closer to the table, making sure I was involved. Out of all the ingredients put into this exceptional meal, the most prominent one was clearly family. 

Today, I was most certainly family. 

From Skyscrapers to Lemon Groves – Part 1

Daily Life on the Amalfi Coast

I took this picture in early morning on my daily walk - when the Amalfi coast was just waking up

Daily life on the Amalfi Coast is full of sunshine, garlic and lemons. Riding a Vespa along the famous Amalfi Drive, curving between the cliffs and the sea, I look at the view and wonder what I did to deserve living in such a breathtaking place.

You can tune in to my short video series documenting my daily life here, but in the meantime I will tell you a little about my latest adventures.

The Amalfi Coast is composed of a variety of small towns just south of Naples on the Mediterranean coast. Houses are built into the rocks and cliffs overlooking the sea. Lemon groves and grape vines are scattered through the winding roads. Life is simple here and revolves mostly around family. Every day for lunch, families join and sit for a meal of pasta and wine, followed by seasonal fruit and an espresso. Then a swim is usually in line before getting back to work. Everyone has a tanned glow and is smiling, offering some sort of food or beverage, using loud voice inflections in both Italian and Neapolitan dialect accompanied animated hand gestures. 

My main source of transportation here is hitching a ride, or “prendere un passagio”. Since the coast is so small, I more than often know someone passing. I usually jump on the back of a vespa and ride from one town to the next, visiting family, friends, or discovering new beach.

Andrea with his Granita Cart on the beach in Amalfi

The economy here thrives on tourism. The economic crisis hit the coast like a ton of bricks, but it is slowly recovering. This year my cousin Andrea (Andrew in English) started a new business making lemon slushies (or granitas), from a small cart. The lemons are of course grown locally and organically and his granitas are the best on the coast (I’m not biased). It makes me laugh to see him rolling by along the beach or the port with his cart, and he has an equally fun personality to accompany it.

The beaches offer sunbed and umbrella rentals, restaurants cook recipes with fresh fish caught daily, handmade pasta, and locally grown vegetables and fruit. Hotels include terraces overlooking the sea and the shops sell handmade ceramics, unique to the coast.

Me! Boating on the Mediterranean Sea

Sometimes I feel like I stepped back in time and imagine my great grandmother Rose and great grandfather Fabiano walking the same cobblestone streets that I walk every day. I go to visit my aunts, and as we sit in the kitchen I listen to their stories about my great grandmother, who died when I was a child. She left Amalfi to find a better life, and my great grandfather followed her onto the ship all the way across the Atlantic to Ellis Island, pressing for her hand in marriage. She finally agreed and they married in New Haven, CT, which is the sister city of Amalfi because during the depression many Amalfitans went to New Haven.  Rose and Fabiano stayed together to raise 3 children, 7 grandchildren, and 6 great grandchildren.

Now here I am, with fire in my heart, tracing my roots back to where it all began.

Amalfi Coast Lemons - they grow to be the size of grapefruits!

The famous Duomo of San Andrea on the Piazza of Amalfi

View of Amalfi from a town above called Tovere

Sunset over Mount Vesuvius. I snapped this picture on a drive back to Amalfi from Naples. Mount Vesuvius is a volcano that destroyed the ancient city of Pompeii in 79 AD.

How to Make Tagliatelle by Hand

From Skyscrapers to Lemon Groves: Part 3 -

Bringing back the joys of homemade pasta…Tagliatelle fatte a mano

The ritual of making homemade pasta is becoming a thing of the past, even in Italy, the homeland of homemade pasta. Barilla and Garofalo are two of the major companies that produce mass amounts of high quality pasta in Italy and abroad, making homemade pasta an unnecessary project. Younger generations also see pasta being made by hand as a time consuming annoyance that their grandparents used to do “back in the day”. 

Yet homemade pasta can be a fun project, and that’s just what I decided to do one rainy Sunday morning with my cousin, whose name also happens to be Valeria! We decided to make a popular ribbon shaped pasta called Tagliatelle. The process was a little messy and a lot of fun! Below is the recipe so that you can try it at home.

 Warning: This recipe is not from a cook book. It has been passed down through generations and does not use a measuring system, but rather your own eye and judgment as to what looks “right”. Cooking is a creative art.  Good luck!  

First, you will need: 

800 kili of Flour

8 eggs

7 pinches of salt

A pasta making machine (available at department and kitchen stores)

Mix about half of the flour with the eggs and salt all together in a bowl until thick, kneading and folding over the dough with your hands for about 5 minutes. This is an important process because it develops the gluten in the pasta, which then gives the pasta a firm texture. Let it sit for about 30 minutes. 

Mixing the dough

After the dough has been sitting for 30 minutes, use your hands to roll it into a long log form and cut in about 3 inch increments. Make sure that it is covered with enough flour so that it won’t stick!

Flatten each 3 inch section with your hands and place it into the widest setting of a pasta roller, shown below. This will make the dough flat. There should be a variety of settings on a machine that is designed to make pasta, and we will be using three of the settings.

Flattening in the “machina per la pasta”, or pasta machine

Next, change the setting on the machine so that it will create a longer and flatter piece of dough. Put the flat dough through again, this time creating the longer and thinner layer. Keep adding flour to the dough.

Finally, change the setting once again to cut the dough into the desired shape…in our case this will be long ribbon shapes. Put the pieces of dough back through the machine one at a time. The machine will cut the dough into long ribbons. Put the ribbons aside on a plate until all of the dough is finished. Throughout this entire process, keep the ribbons covered in flour so that they won’t stick. There should be flour on top of the dough at all times. 

Creating the ribbon shape

This is me, covered in flour and ready to throw the ribbons into the boiling water!

Boil a pot of water and throw in the pasta, separating it with a fork so the ribbons don’t stick together. Boil for about 5 minutes or until “al dente”. Keep tasting the pasta after about 3 minutes, however, to make sure it does not overcook… and voila! Talgliatelli fatte a mano! 

Of course, Sunday sauce, homemade!

Voila! Tagliatelle fatte a mano, with homemade Bolognese sauce. Buon Appetito!

Savor the Sweetness of the Amalfi Lemon Groves

From Skyscrapers to Lemon Groves: Part 6 -

“Leaving behind my beloved New York skyscrapers has of course been a bit tart, but I prefer to savor the sweetness of the lemon groves”

The other day I brought a literal meaning to the title of my column, as I dove head first into the abundant lemon groves that ascend through the Amalfi Coast hills. I discovered that something called a Lemon Tour exists, created by the De Riso family here in Minori, Italy. This tour takes people up into the mountains to explore the paths and passageways of the groves high above the Mediterranean Sea.

View from the gardens in Scala, Italy

I brought along my 7 year old cousin Myriam to experience this adventure, as I thought it would be a special experience for her. The tour began very early in the morning, where we met Carlo De Riso, the mastermind behind the tour.

Climbing into a refurbished antique bus, we clambered up the mountains from Minori, through La Marmorata and into Scala and Pontone. It was a gorgeous morning and as we made our way up from the seafront into the dense gardens, the view of the sun rising over the sea created a serene glow. Scala is a small town situated above Minori and is one of the oldest communes on the coast. This is where we find fresh fruits, vegetables, and livestock.

With Myriam in the heart of the lemon groves. Notice the grapes hanging above our heads.

Once in the groves, we began our descent on foot, climbing down crumbling stairs, through soil and trees and under a canopy of lemons, figs, grapes, zucchini and tomatoes.  We trekked past pigs, horses, rabbits, and ducks. Cats scampered out from under our feet as we trudged along. It was cool and fresh and the smell of lemons filled the air and our noses.

The celebrated lemon groves: The lemons are folded under a wooden umbrella for protection from the wind and weather. They are supported by the wood which in turn allows them to grow larger.

Lemons are one of the most important crops cultivated on the Amalfi Coast. Years ago, during the depression, the cultivation of lemons was relied upon to feed and maintain large families. They are now a world renowned symbol of the coast, growing to be larger than grapefruits and being used in everything imaginable; from sweets to liquors, pastas, salads and even eaten alone, drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

The De Riso family has been in the lemon business since 1927. Each cousin has branched off into a specialty-desserts, liquors and distribution. The lemon tour was started last year and has been a success among tourists looking to see for themselves what all the lemon hype is about.

Carlo De Riso giving me a lesson on Amalfi Coast lemons.

One of the most beautiful parts of the tour was meeting the men that work in the gardens, picking and caring for the fruit every day. These men don’t do this work for the money but instead for the tradition and the culture-their love for the land and the importance of what it means for Italy and the coast. To me, that is raw and beautiful truth.

Two of the magicians behind the lemon cultivation…and their dog!

I learned that some of the different types of lemons cultivated on the Amalfi Coast are:

Verdello: Cultivated in September and October, they are round in shape and contain more of a green tint.

Zagora Bianca: Smaller in size and round in shape.

Sfusato: Generally longer and thinner in shape.

Primo Fiore: The most fragrant with more of an acidic juice.

We finally made it through the groves and down into the town of Pontone, where we sat in the shade and enjoyed slices of lemon cake, drank lemonade and munched on freshly picked lemons drizzled with olive oil and balsamic. From there we boarded the little bus back to Minori where we were able to get a glimpse of the De Riso lemon factory. Once in the factory,  the lemons are then converted into deliciousness (Limoncello, anyone?) and sent out to be sold and consumed.

Limoncello and lemon treats at the De Riso factory in Minori, Italy.

In all, leaving behind my beloved New York skyscrapers has of course been a bit tart, but I prefer to savor the sweetness of the lemon groves.

August Festivals on the Amalfi Coast

From Skyscrapers to Lemon Groves: Part 4 -

Endless celebrations of food and fun

August is full of festivals and parties in Italy. Almost every night there is a town that is honoring a Saint or a type of delicious food. Since my last article on “La Festa Della Patata”, there have been wine, cheese and pastry festivals, to name a few. There has also been the celebration of Ferragosto, one of the most important holidays in Italy. Ferragosto, celebrated on the 15^th of August, beckons all the city dwellers down to the coast, where they can enjoy a day of sea, sun and sand.

La Sagra Della Mozzarella: The Amalfi Coast is famous for producing arguably the best mozzarella in the world, and the other night I went to a mozzarella festival in Agerola with some friends called “Fiordilatte Fiordifesta”. Agerola is a town in the mountains above the Amalfi Coast, about 35 killometers south of the city of Naples and about 15 killometers above Amalfi.

At the festival, we ate Fior di Latte mozzarella. We paired it with prosciutto, with pasta, with eggplant, bread, tomatoes, and of course all by itself. We ate it warm and melted, raw and cold, and spread as a cream along foccacia bread. We ate mozzarella in every way possible.

Two of the most well known types are Fior di Latte, made in the town of Agerola, and Mozzerella di Bufala (Buffalo Mozzarella), produced in a village called Tramonti. Mozzarella di Bufala is produced using the milk of water buffalo, originally brought to the Campania region of Italy from India in about 600 AD. They thrived along the Amalfi Coast. Fior di Latte is known to be made with less fat and lighter, but some argue that the taste is not as sweet.  Everyone has their own opinion on what type is the best mozzarella. I love both.

Mozzarella Festival in Agerola-Fior di Latte Mozzarella

Ferragosto: Ferragosto is another holiday with ridiculous parties, and this was my first time experiencing the festivities. Ferragosto is celebrated on the 15^th of August.  I went to the town of  Positano to see the fireworks display with some friends. Positano is known to have one of the best fireworks displays on the coast. We laid down a sarong on the beach with some red wine and watched the display. It was spectacular.

Although Ferragosto is now associated with beach and sun, it dates as far back as to the times of the emperors.  In the 18^thcentury BC, emperor Ottaviano Augusto declared that August 15^th would be a day of rest for Italy, as a way to celebrate the end of summer. It was celebrated with games and horse races. Ferragosto is also a religious holiday for Italy, which is a Catholic country. It is Santa Assunta day, said to be the rise of Mary into Heaven to join her son Jesus and look after all of the people on Earth. Everyone on the Amalfi Coast celebrated the coming of Ferragosto with dancing in the port of Amalfi, followed by the next day under the hot sun at the beach, and then fireworks at night.

Positano in August

A Ferragosto firework above the beach in Positano

Notte Bianca: Another fun festival takes place in a town called Praiano. All the stores remain open all night long, and everyone dresses from head to toe in white. For the young Italians, it’s another excuse to party on a hot August night.

View from Praiano before Notte Bianca, another festival in August!

Notte Bianca

A Magical Place Called Villa Rufolo in Ravello

From Skyscrapers to Lemon Groves: Part 4 -

A place of historical charm and timeless beauty to enjoy views of the Mediterranean Sea

Ravello is a small, peaceful and picturesque town situated above the Amalfi Coast, directly overlooking the towns of Minori, Marmorata, and of course the Mediterranean Sea. Like the other towns along the coast, Ravello is rich in history and culture and has been a vacation spot for famous names such as Jacqueline Kennedy, Tennessee Williams, and Gay Talese.   

One of the most famous attractions that Ravello boasts is the beautiful Villa Rufolo, a magnificent villa dating back to the 11^th century; the entrance to which is located on left side of Ravello’s small piazza. 

Villa Rufolo is named after the family that built it, the Rufolo family. The architecture is a perfect fusion of Arabic, Sicilian and Norman design. One of the major aspects of the villa is the Torre Maggiore, a large tower of thirty meters that looms over the town and the sea. It was built to signify the wealth and prominence of the Rufolo family.

Bouganvilla can be found surrounding the grounds of the villa.

The gardens of the villa are also notably one of the most beautiful in the world and are said to be the inspiration for Richard Wagner’s opera “Parsifal”. They are full of cypresses and exotic plants and flowers. 

Touring the gardens at the Villa Rufolo

The height of power for the Rufolo family was in the 13^th century. They were largely involved in the trading industry and after the battle of Benevento in 1266, the Rufolo family swore allegiance to the new conquerors, the Angioini.  They became very active in the reign of the region. 

However, after the war of the Vesporo in 1283, the Angioini power began to fall. Some of the Rufolo family members were captured and eventually sentenced to death by Prince Charles of Salerno, who wanted to seize the fortune. He succeeded, and the Rufolo family did not recover, losing all power in the 15^th century. Over the centuries the villa has been left in ruins and restored, most notably by Scottish botanist Francis Neville Reid.

Now it is a peaceful attraction through which one can stroll and feel the magic of history while overlooking the grandeur of the Amalfi Coast. It is also home to the famous Ravello Festival, a series of concerts held in the villa as well as other sites around Ravello. Talented musicians and performers travel from around the world to perform for guests under a sky full of stars and a backdrop of jagged coastline. The New York Ballet and the Lincoln Center Jazz Orchestra are two of the big names that have performed here this August. 

My favorite view and arguably the most famous at the Villa!

I had the pleasure of sitting down with the director of Villa Rufolo, Dottore Secondo Amalfitano, who provided me with some of the history and insider information on the villa. Their webcam, he told me, is one of the ten most watched webcams in the world! The villa is also open all year round, a rarity on the Amalfi coast.  Aside from the famous Ravello Festival series in July and August, there are also concerts held here year round. 

In addition to the rich history and undeniable beauty of the Villa Rufolo, Ravello is full of quaint shops and cafes, with a cool wind coming up from the sea through the mountains, offering a quiet respite from the summer heat.

A Little Piece of Paradise in Positano

Enjoying being a concierge of fashion, food and more on Amalfi Coast

Much has happened since my last article for Italia Living. Living life in the Lemon Groves has been extra adventurous this past summer. I moved to Positano. I began a new career. And so the story continues.

Positano seems to be the ideal place for a transplanted New Yorker to choose to live on the Amalfi Coast. The fashion is on a whole other level than the rest of the surrounding villages- Fendi, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana, among others, are displayed in every store window…not to mention the fine linens and hand made leather sandals, bags, etc.

I find myself wandering through the streets alone with the shoes, bags and clothes as my company. My first friend since moving here was the store clerk at Missoni. Dangerous.

Positano, however, is a town full of cobblestone staircases because it rests on a mountainside. It is absolutely the most beautiful sight when seen from the sea. It takes my breath away. Needless to say, my thighs and butt are quickly getting whipped into shape with the 200 steps that I have to climb every day to get home. With this in mind, I kissed my 4 inch heels goodbye for the time being and have resorted to wearing my canvas, nautical inspired Toms everywhere I go. I’m a little nervous to see how the streets, staircases and narrow passageways handle the first rainfall.

After spending so much time between America and Italy, I have become known throughout friends in both countries as the “go to” person when planning a trip. I know all of the best things to do in both places- where and how to save the most money, places well worth visiting on and off the beaten path, what to eat, drink and where to sleep.

This year the Amalfi Coast seems to have been bombarded with New Yorkers, all flocking to grab a little piece of paradise. I have metamorphosed into the concierge of the area and I wear the hat proudly because when you love a place as much as I love the coast, you want to share only the best things with the people who are visiting. With that said, even if you are a reader of my column and I don’t know you personally, my email inbox is always open.

Ciao for now!

Valeria

Exclusive Cruises Teams Up With Voyage 'a la Carte To Form Premier Wedding and Event Services

Meet Exclusive Cruises, Italy’s Best Kept Secret

February 11, 2013 By Italia Living 

Freelance Stylist and Writer Valeria Carrano left the skyscrapers of New York one year ago for the Lemon Groves on Italy’s Amalfi Coast. She began managing a yacht and speedboat charter company, Exclusive Cruises and it has become an overnight sensation- captivating the A-listers and their travel agents vacationing along the Amalfi Coast, Positano and the island of Capri.
Exclusive Cruises creates customized tours and packages with a variety of speedboats and yachts for every budget. Before any excursion is sold or created it is tested and methodically planned by Valeria and the fleets’ captains, who have an expert, but more importantly, a local knowledge of the area.
“The absolute best thing about Exclusive Cruises is that we are a balanced mix of American and Italian qualities. We run the business with the efficiency and attention to detail that some may call American qualities, but with the passion for beauty, life and luxury that others would call Italian qualities. This is the ideal recipe for a perfect client experience from the booking process all the way through to the last minute that our guests are on board with us!” says Valeria.
Exclusive Cruises offers private water transfers as well as day charters along the Amalfi Coast, island of Capri, thermal baths in Ischia and the many kilometers of the beautifully untouched Cilento Coast. They also offer overnight trips aboard some of their yachts.


Visit their beautifully presented website, www.exclusivecruises.it for more information or to experience boating along one of the most sought after vacation destinations in the world.
Visit their social network sites at:
https://www.facebook.com/exclusivecruisesitaly
https://twitter.com/Excruiseitaly

Valeria can be reached directly at exclusivecruisesitaly@gmail.com