Pompeii & Mt. Vesuvius

Guest Blogger: Michael Mammele 

In Southern Italy there are countless things to do and experiences to be had. I’ve been lucky enough to live along the Amalfi Coast for the past month and a half but recently, I was able to travel farther inland to two sights that are rich in history: the ruins of Pompeii and Mt. Vesuvius. I embarked on a bus with a group of about 50 people from Amalfi and began the journey to Pompeii.

Pompeii is now ruins of an ancient Roman city that experienced the devastating eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in the year 79AD. The eruption killed over 3,000 people, while over 20,000 fled the city entirely. Upon arriving I was immediately blown away by the vast architecture. It made me think about how incredible it is that nearly 2000 years ago, a structured civilization was able to create such a breathtaking city. The ruins themselves are much like an outdoor museum. Our tour group walked through old palaces, thermal spas, and looked at ancient paintings frozen in time. We walked through the famous amphitheater, completed in 80BC. This site was home to numerous spectacles and gladiator battles. I grew up watching the movie “Gladiator” with Russell Crowe and here I was literally standing on the very grounds that partly inspired the film.

We looked into small cement rooms where the gladiators, who were prisoners, slept. The rooms were no bigger than the average home bathroom; most of them had no roof to protect from rain. Not only was I in amazement at the historical sights I was seeing but I was humbled in the process.

While I loved Pompeii and the ruins, I couldn't wait to start the second half of the day: the climb of Mt. Vesuvius. The bus ride took about 45 minutes from Pompeii and pulled nearly to the top of the mountain, where the group disembarked and climbed the rest of the way. Standing at the top of a volcano was always something I considered to be a “bucket-list” activity, and not a very realistic one at that. Yet, here I stood well over 3000 feet in the air, staring into this massive crater. In fact, massive doesn't even do the size of this beauty justice.

I was surrounded with a jaw-dropping panoramic view over the city of Naples, the Bay of Salerno, and the islands of Capri and Ischia. I could see smoke slowly protruding from the bottom of the crater. I had to pinch myself to realize that I wasn’t dreaming. It was a day that I’m certain I will never forget.

While I met some great people from all over the world, I was truly happy to spend a day by myself and experience a real adventure. While traveling with companions is always pleasant, I think everyone should travel to at least one destination by themselves; it clears your head and gives you a great sense of independence. I couldn't have been happier with how the day turned out, and can't wait for my next adventure.

The Gardens of Augustus

The gardens of Augustus are botanical gardens on the island of Capri, originally built in the early 20th century by the German industrialist Friedrich Alfred Krupp. 

The gardens

Named for the late Roman emperor Augustus,the gardens are built high up on the island and boast a wonderful view of the Mediterranean Sea. Attached to the gardens is an extremely windy road called Via Krupp which leads down to Marina Piccola. Unfortunately this unique road has been closed due to falling rocks (Capri is an island of limestone, so there is always a threat of falling rock).

Via Krupp

 It is a beautiful garden and one of the many few free attractions, so it tends to get crowded. We recommend going early in the morning to beat the crowds. 

Augustus Gardens

What is the Blue Grotto in Capri?

HISTORY:

Many people ask us to explain a bit more about the Blue Grotto-the history and what makes it is special. 

The history of the Blue Grotto dates back to the Roman times, when the Roman Emperor Tiberius allegedly used it as his private bath house during his retirement on the island. Ancient Roman statues were even found there! 

For years, the grotto was avoided by locals, thought to be cursed until a fisherman ventured in with German novelist and tourist August Kopisch. Kopisch subsequently included the Blue Grotto in his next novel,  Entdeckung der blauen Grotte auf der Insel Capri in 1838. Many people claim that after this novel was published, Capri and the Blue Grotto sprung into the limelight as a must-see destination. 

The Blue Grotto is now one of the most sought after sites on Capri. 

  

WHY IS IT SO BRIGHT?

The sunlight enters the cave through an opening located directly under the cave's mouth. This limits the amount of light that enters the cave at any given moment, causing the bright blue effect, which seeps through the rock crevices. 

VISITING:

• The grotto may close due to weather because if there are high waves they will cover the entrance of the cave.  
• Tickets cost €13, to be paid directly at the entrance
• Wait time can range anywhere between 1-2 hours and time in the cave is about 5 minutes
• Visiting the cave is optional and of course not required when purchasing a private speedboat cruise with Exclusive Cruises. 

If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me!

How to Make Tagliatelle by Hand

From Skyscrapers to Lemon Groves: Part 3 -

Bringing back the joys of homemade pasta…Tagliatelle fatte a mano

The ritual of making homemade pasta is becoming a thing of the past, even in Italy, the homeland of homemade pasta. Barilla and Garofalo are two of the major companies that produce mass amounts of high quality pasta in Italy and abroad, making homemade pasta an unnecessary project. Younger generations also see pasta being made by hand as a time consuming annoyance that their grandparents used to do “back in the day”. 

Yet homemade pasta can be a fun project, and that’s just what I decided to do one rainy Sunday morning with my cousin, whose name also happens to be Valeria! We decided to make a popular ribbon shaped pasta called Tagliatelle. The process was a little messy and a lot of fun! Below is the recipe so that you can try it at home.

 Warning: This recipe is not from a cook book. It has been passed down through generations and does not use a measuring system, but rather your own eye and judgment as to what looks “right”. Cooking is a creative art.  Good luck!  

First, you will need: 

800 kili of Flour

8 eggs

7 pinches of salt

A pasta making machine (available at department and kitchen stores)

Mix about half of the flour with the eggs and salt all together in a bowl until thick, kneading and folding over the dough with your hands for about 5 minutes. This is an important process because it develops the gluten in the pasta, which then gives the pasta a firm texture. Let it sit for about 30 minutes. 

Mixing the dough

After the dough has been sitting for 30 minutes, use your hands to roll it into a long log form and cut in about 3 inch increments. Make sure that it is covered with enough flour so that it won’t stick!

Flatten each 3 inch section with your hands and place it into the widest setting of a pasta roller, shown below. This will make the dough flat. There should be a variety of settings on a machine that is designed to make pasta, and we will be using three of the settings.

Flattening in the “machina per la pasta”, or pasta machine

Next, change the setting on the machine so that it will create a longer and flatter piece of dough. Put the flat dough through again, this time creating the longer and thinner layer. Keep adding flour to the dough.

Finally, change the setting once again to cut the dough into the desired shape…in our case this will be long ribbon shapes. Put the pieces of dough back through the machine one at a time. The machine will cut the dough into long ribbons. Put the ribbons aside on a plate until all of the dough is finished. Throughout this entire process, keep the ribbons covered in flour so that they won’t stick. There should be flour on top of the dough at all times. 

Creating the ribbon shape

This is me, covered in flour and ready to throw the ribbons into the boiling water!

Boil a pot of water and throw in the pasta, separating it with a fork so the ribbons don’t stick together. Boil for about 5 minutes or until “al dente”. Keep tasting the pasta after about 3 minutes, however, to make sure it does not overcook… and voila! Talgliatelli fatte a mano! 

Of course, Sunday sauce, homemade!

Voila! Tagliatelle fatte a mano, with homemade Bolognese sauce. Buon Appetito!

Savor the Sweetness of the Amalfi Lemon Groves

From Skyscrapers to Lemon Groves: Part 6 -

“Leaving behind my beloved New York skyscrapers has of course been a bit tart, but I prefer to savor the sweetness of the lemon groves”

The other day I brought a literal meaning to the title of my column, as I dove head first into the abundant lemon groves that ascend through the Amalfi Coast hills. I discovered that something called a Lemon Tour exists, created by the De Riso family here in Minori, Italy. This tour takes people up into the mountains to explore the paths and passageways of the groves high above the Mediterranean Sea.

View from the gardens in Scala, Italy

I brought along my 7 year old cousin Myriam to experience this adventure, as I thought it would be a special experience for her. The tour began very early in the morning, where we met Carlo De Riso, the mastermind behind the tour.

Climbing into a refurbished antique bus, we clambered up the mountains from Minori, through La Marmorata and into Scala and Pontone. It was a gorgeous morning and as we made our way up from the seafront into the dense gardens, the view of the sun rising over the sea created a serene glow. Scala is a small town situated above Minori and is one of the oldest communes on the coast. This is where we find fresh fruits, vegetables, and livestock.

With Myriam in the heart of the lemon groves. Notice the grapes hanging above our heads.

Once in the groves, we began our descent on foot, climbing down crumbling stairs, through soil and trees and under a canopy of lemons, figs, grapes, zucchini and tomatoes.  We trekked past pigs, horses, rabbits, and ducks. Cats scampered out from under our feet as we trudged along. It was cool and fresh and the smell of lemons filled the air and our noses.

The celebrated lemon groves: The lemons are folded under a wooden umbrella for protection from the wind and weather. They are supported by the wood which in turn allows them to grow larger.

Lemons are one of the most important crops cultivated on the Amalfi Coast. Years ago, during the depression, the cultivation of lemons was relied upon to feed and maintain large families. They are now a world renowned symbol of the coast, growing to be larger than grapefruits and being used in everything imaginable; from sweets to liquors, pastas, salads and even eaten alone, drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

The De Riso family has been in the lemon business since 1927. Each cousin has branched off into a specialty-desserts, liquors and distribution. The lemon tour was started last year and has been a success among tourists looking to see for themselves what all the lemon hype is about.

Carlo De Riso giving me a lesson on Amalfi Coast lemons.

One of the most beautiful parts of the tour was meeting the men that work in the gardens, picking and caring for the fruit every day. These men don’t do this work for the money but instead for the tradition and the culture-their love for the land and the importance of what it means for Italy and the coast. To me, that is raw and beautiful truth.

Two of the magicians behind the lemon cultivation…and their dog!

I learned that some of the different types of lemons cultivated on the Amalfi Coast are:

Verdello: Cultivated in September and October, they are round in shape and contain more of a green tint.

Zagora Bianca: Smaller in size and round in shape.

Sfusato: Generally longer and thinner in shape.

Primo Fiore: The most fragrant with more of an acidic juice.

We finally made it through the groves and down into the town of Pontone, where we sat in the shade and enjoyed slices of lemon cake, drank lemonade and munched on freshly picked lemons drizzled with olive oil and balsamic. From there we boarded the little bus back to Minori where we were able to get a glimpse of the De Riso lemon factory. Once in the factory,  the lemons are then converted into deliciousness (Limoncello, anyone?) and sent out to be sold and consumed.

Limoncello and lemon treats at the De Riso factory in Minori, Italy.

In all, leaving behind my beloved New York skyscrapers has of course been a bit tart, but I prefer to savor the sweetness of the lemon groves.

A Magical Place Called Villa Rufolo in Ravello

From Skyscrapers to Lemon Groves: Part 4 -

A place of historical charm and timeless beauty to enjoy views of the Mediterranean Sea

Ravello is a small, peaceful and picturesque town situated above the Amalfi Coast, directly overlooking the towns of Minori, Marmorata, and of course the Mediterranean Sea. Like the other towns along the coast, Ravello is rich in history and culture and has been a vacation spot for famous names such as Jacqueline Kennedy, Tennessee Williams, and Gay Talese.   

One of the most famous attractions that Ravello boasts is the beautiful Villa Rufolo, a magnificent villa dating back to the 11^th century; the entrance to which is located on left side of Ravello’s small piazza. 

Villa Rufolo is named after the family that built it, the Rufolo family. The architecture is a perfect fusion of Arabic, Sicilian and Norman design. One of the major aspects of the villa is the Torre Maggiore, a large tower of thirty meters that looms over the town and the sea. It was built to signify the wealth and prominence of the Rufolo family.

Bouganvilla can be found surrounding the grounds of the villa.

The gardens of the villa are also notably one of the most beautiful in the world and are said to be the inspiration for Richard Wagner’s opera “Parsifal”. They are full of cypresses and exotic plants and flowers. 

Touring the gardens at the Villa Rufolo

The height of power for the Rufolo family was in the 13^th century. They were largely involved in the trading industry and after the battle of Benevento in 1266, the Rufolo family swore allegiance to the new conquerors, the Angioini.  They became very active in the reign of the region. 

However, after the war of the Vesporo in 1283, the Angioini power began to fall. Some of the Rufolo family members were captured and eventually sentenced to death by Prince Charles of Salerno, who wanted to seize the fortune. He succeeded, and the Rufolo family did not recover, losing all power in the 15^th century. Over the centuries the villa has been left in ruins and restored, most notably by Scottish botanist Francis Neville Reid.

Now it is a peaceful attraction through which one can stroll and feel the magic of history while overlooking the grandeur of the Amalfi Coast. It is also home to the famous Ravello Festival, a series of concerts held in the villa as well as other sites around Ravello. Talented musicians and performers travel from around the world to perform for guests under a sky full of stars and a backdrop of jagged coastline. The New York Ballet and the Lincoln Center Jazz Orchestra are two of the big names that have performed here this August. 

My favorite view and arguably the most famous at the Villa!

I had the pleasure of sitting down with the director of Villa Rufolo, Dottore Secondo Amalfitano, who provided me with some of the history and insider information on the villa. Their webcam, he told me, is one of the ten most watched webcams in the world! The villa is also open all year round, a rarity on the Amalfi coast.  Aside from the famous Ravello Festival series in July and August, there are also concerts held here year round. 

In addition to the rich history and undeniable beauty of the Villa Rufolo, Ravello is full of quaint shops and cafes, with a cool wind coming up from the sea through the mountains, offering a quiet respite from the summer heat.

Capri, The Blue Grotto and the Myth of the Sirens

From Skyscrapers to Lemon Groves: Part 5 -

The beauty seen in darkness

Wandering through the caves of Capri and the Amalfi Coast, I can almost hear the Sirens that Homer mentioned when he wrote The Odyssey.  Ulysses knew that he couldn’t stop even his most stoic sailors from succumbing to the luring song of the sirens. As the ships sailed by, he ordered his sailors to fill their ears with wax as to not hear the seducing songs. Ulysses himself, however, wanted to hear the sirens’ beautiful voices so he tied himself to the ships mast so that he couldn’t escape.  Roman writers also suggest that the sirens are daughters of Phorcys, the God of the Sea. They sang sad and sweet songs to lure in sailors, but always with a deadly result. It is here on the Amalfi Coast where the myth seems to become reality.

Faraglioni, the famous rock formations of Capri and the mythical habitat of the Sirens

Riding along the shores of Capri, I explored the rocky coast, hidden caves, and deep blue crystal clear waters that these fabled sailors passed through. I sailed until I reached the blue grotto, or Grotta Azzurra.  The Blue Grotto is a small cave on the Island of Capri that reflects the most pristine and piercing blue light that I have ever seen. There is a very small hole that is the entryway, allowing light into the grotto. The large surrounding walls/rocks don’t reach the sea floor, which in turn allows sunlight to reflect underneath the water creating this mesmerizing blue effect in the cave.

The Blue Grotto is said to have been the private bath of Emperor Tiberius. It was later said by the island’s sailors to be haunted by evil spirits, therefore it remained largely untouched. By 1826 the Blue Grotto was rediscovered by German painter August Kopisch and since then has become a major attraction with people all over the world travelling to get a glimpse.

Right before entering the Blue Grotto

A dear friend from New York came to visit me last week and it was the perfect excuse to take a trip to this famed wonder.  My experience was one of comedy, terror, and awe. It began by the two of us sliding into a small rowboat with a Native Caprese sailor rowing us into the cave. 

“Lay flat and don’t move!” He ordered. “Keep your arms close to your chest!”

I was smushed like a sardine in a little rowboat next to my friend, lying on my back, looking up at the sailor as he tried to navigate this little rowboat over the rolling waves and into the cave’s tiny entrance. 

Bungada Bangada!

 The boat smashed into the sides of the rocks and water splashed onto our faces. 

“This is it”, I thought.  “I’m going to die on my way into the Blue Grotto”.

The sailor was holding on tight to a thick metal chain that was attached to the inside of the grotto, ready to force the boat through the hole. 

“C’e la facciamo justo justo”…. “We will just about fit”, he was saying to us.

Inside the Blue Grotto

All of a sudden I heard a bang, felt the boat surge forward, and then we were engulfed in darkness. I opened my eyes and saw the most intense blue light I had ever seen shining up through the water. “Hurry, jump! Hurry Hurry!”  The fisherman was saying in a “whisper-scream”, as swimming in the grotto is strictly forbidden. 

The next thing I knew, I was flying through the air and into the water. I popped up and looked around. I was the only one swimming in this dark cave with blue light shining all around me. Another splash and my friend was bobbing next to me. I was terrified of what sea creatures may have been swimming below, but excited about the fact that I was submerged in this electrifying grotto.

Suddenly, I was being pulled up by my arms and into the rocking rowboat. I had to lay flat again and we were pushed back into the real world and bright sunlight by a giant wave and a yank of the chain. 

Turquoise waters along the coast

Looking back, it was two minutes of sheer panic and laughter all rolled into one.  It’s not what one might think of when traveling to the luxurious and mythical island of Capri, but it was an experience that I will always remember fondly. 

A Little Piece of Paradise in Positano

Enjoying being a concierge of fashion, food and more on Amalfi Coast

Much has happened since my last article for Italia Living. Living life in the Lemon Groves has been extra adventurous this past summer. I moved to Positano. I began a new career. And so the story continues.

Positano seems to be the ideal place for a transplanted New Yorker to choose to live on the Amalfi Coast. The fashion is on a whole other level than the rest of the surrounding villages- Fendi, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana, among others, are displayed in every store window…not to mention the fine linens and hand made leather sandals, bags, etc.

I find myself wandering through the streets alone with the shoes, bags and clothes as my company. My first friend since moving here was the store clerk at Missoni. Dangerous.

Positano, however, is a town full of cobblestone staircases because it rests on a mountainside. It is absolutely the most beautiful sight when seen from the sea. It takes my breath away. Needless to say, my thighs and butt are quickly getting whipped into shape with the 200 steps that I have to climb every day to get home. With this in mind, I kissed my 4 inch heels goodbye for the time being and have resorted to wearing my canvas, nautical inspired Toms everywhere I go. I’m a little nervous to see how the streets, staircases and narrow passageways handle the first rainfall.

After spending so much time between America and Italy, I have become known throughout friends in both countries as the “go to” person when planning a trip. I know all of the best things to do in both places- where and how to save the most money, places well worth visiting on and off the beaten path, what to eat, drink and where to sleep.

This year the Amalfi Coast seems to have been bombarded with New Yorkers, all flocking to grab a little piece of paradise. I have metamorphosed into the concierge of the area and I wear the hat proudly because when you love a place as much as I love the coast, you want to share only the best things with the people who are visiting. With that said, even if you are a reader of my column and I don’t know you personally, my email inbox is always open.

Ciao for now!

Valeria

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